Conversation

We left Malmö this morning early, around 7:30 a.m., to take Michelle to the Copenhagen airport. It was a quiet car ride. We all hugged goodbye, and I apologized for the trip not working out for us all and wished her well. The drive continued through Denmark to the ferry port in Gedser. We loaded the van on board then found some seats up on deck. I was hoping to sleep or at least be quiet for the two hours on the ferry, but a Danish couple sat down across from us. We ended up chatting the whole way, and they were really lovely. Per and Lisbet are pensioners from Denmark on their way to Italy for a two-week holiday. They are driving their RV, which they called something else. Per is a professional storyteller. He does Santa Claus and Hans Christian Anderson as well as two other characters. Lisbet is a special educator at the elementary level and proud mom and grandma. She talked about the time she hitchhiked to Afghanistan in her 20’s (!!!!!). Her voice was mild and her eyes were kind. Per was charming and spoke about himself, America, travel, politics, and more.

We haven’t met many people on this trip. I don’t think we had any in Istanbul or Paros. In Athens, we met Theo’s colleague Vasilis and his wife Fotini over one of the best dinners of all time there. I’m still so touched by their generosity. In Kerry, Ireland, everyone we met was a conversationalist. From the B&B hosts to the taxi driver to the pub patrons at Caitin’s who just happened to have grown up down the road from our place in County Meath, we had good conversations and witty banter. I recognized how deprived I had been of new conversation with new people when the owner of the Indian/Bangladeshi restaurant in Edinburgh regaled us with bits of his life story. So when we connected with another of Theo’s colleagues - James - and his wife Natalie and their three kids in Stockholm I was grateful. We had an old-fashioned playdate and dinner with them at a great playground and then a delicious Mexican taco place.

We don’t often get to meet our Airbnb hosts, either. We did in Donore. Erin was so patient waiting for us and greeted us warmly and with scones! It was nice to chat. Kyle in Dublin was a primary school teacher working a side venture in real estate. Joost was accommodating and personable and I wish we could have spent more time with him in Amsterdam. He traveled around the world once in his youth, and having four kids himself he really understood the significance of what we’re doing with our three this year. Although I didn’t meet Emilie, our Malmö host, in person, I felt a kinship with her and have kept up a correspondence. I hope our “staying put” time in Germany will help us reach out to and connect with more people.

Waning Summer in Visby

This was our last day in Visby. I took two walks today; one on my own and one with Theo. On my own, I explored three of the old church ruins in the town. I find myself drawn to houses of worship everywhere we go. Even though I know that religious institutions are too often instruments of violence and discord and oppression, I also know that they are places of love and community and uplifting inspiration to care for others and the world. I know they are places of comfort, and I am comforted within them.

What I noticed yesterday at Toftra beach, just south of Visby, was also quite apparent today: we’re in summer’s last light. Plants and walls are imbued with a golden tone. The sun is warm and the breeze is cool. I love this time of year, and I am so glad we’re experiencing it in a place and at a time that matches the rhythm of my lifelong experience of seasons. We intend to skip winter on this trip, (although Ireland must not have read that memo) and we will spend much of the year in summer-like weather. But I love early autumn. The few weeks after the summer’s scorching heat breaks and before sweater weather turns into sweater-and-coat weather are my favorite. The skies are usually crystal-blue. School have reopened and there is an energy of harvest and gathering together. Visby is a seasonal destination - much like Cape Cod or any beach spot on the East Coast. It has a year-round population that is but a small fraction of what it holds during the summer. Many shops and restaurants have already closed.

Snippets of Stockholm

Question: What is this place?

Answer: This is one of the subway stations in Stockholm. It's the only one we saw with major artwork, but apparently many of the stations are decked out to the nines. Nicely done, Stockholm.

Gamla Stan is adorable.

Gamla Stan is a small island in the center of Stockholm. It is the old city, the original Stockholm. The streets are cobbled and narrow. You will find the Nobel Museum and the Royal Palace here. Every day, there is a military parade leading up to the palace. Adorable.

Stockholm is family-friendly.

We were very comfortable here. There are lots of things to do with kids during the day, and there are lots of shops that cater to families. Stockholm may be going through a baby boom, as evidenced by the very many pregnant women and people pushing carriages we saw.

Water, water everywhere.

If you're in Stockholm during warm weather, get out on the water. You can kayak, canoe, paddleboat, sail, motorboat, and more. You can sail the city's waterways or you can venture out to the eastern islands of the Stockholm archipelago. The scenery is gorgeous.

The Swedes know how to eat.

We are a family of foodies. We love good food and enjoy many different cuisines. When left to their own devices about travel blogging, the kids have mostly written about food. So, it's very cool to note that not only does the Swedish food taste great in Stockholm, but so does the sushi, the Mexican, the American and the Thai. Oh, and who can forget the German? They rock that, too.

The Museums are very good.

We went to the Vasa Museum, the Nobel Museum, and the Swedish History Museum. There are many others. We've been to museums just about everywhere we've stayed on this trip and I must say the museums in Stockholm are very good. If you visit, just pick a couple. The least effective was the Nobel Museum, but it was still good. If you have limited time, don't feel bad about skipping that one.

My notebook page from the Swedish History Museum:

My up-close-and-personal experience with the diving bell exhibit at the Vasa Museum:

Family time at the Nobel Museum: